Question

List down point to be kept in mind while constructing necklines. Explain the method of constructing a V-neckline with the help of a neat and labelled diagram.

Hint:

If you do not clip the seam allowance precisely to the pivot stitch at the bottom of the V-point, the fabric will bunch and pull. This results in a puckered, rounded V-neck that will not lie flat against the chest.

Answer 1

Step 1: Key Quality Principles for Neckline Construction:
To ensure a professionally constructed neckline that lies flat against the body without gaping or stretching, keep the following points in mind:

• Staystitching: Always apply a row of directional staystitching along the neckline seam curve at $1/16''$ inside the seamline immediately after cutting. This stabilizes the curved bias sections of the grain and prevents stretching during handling.
• Interfacing: Apply lightweight fusible interfacing to the neckline facings to provide stability and clean support.
• Grain Alignment: Ensure the facing pieces are cut on the exact same grainline as the garment neckline area they will finish.
• Clipping and Notching Curves: Concave curves must be clipped, and convex curves notched, to release tension and allow the seam allowance to fold smoothly inside without bunching.
• Understitching: Always press the seam allowance toward the facing and understitch it to the facing at $1/16''$ from the seam line. This prevents the facing from rolling out toward the right side of the garment.

Step 2: Preparing the V-Neck Facing:
Draft a matching neckline facing that mimics the V-neck shape perfectly, making it approximately $5\text{ cm}$ ($2$ inches) wide. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of this facing, and finish its lower raw outer edge using a serger or pinking shears.

Step 3: Stitching and Pivoting the Point:
Align the facing and the garment neckline with right sides facing, matching up the center back and center front seam lines. Pin them securely in place.

• Sew along the designated seamline down toward the V-apex.
• The Pivot: When you reach the exact center point of the V, stop the sewing machine. Ensure the needle is down in the fabric. Raise the presser foot, carefully pivot the garment, lower the presser foot, and sew up the opposite side of the V.

Step 4: Clipping and Understitching:
Crucially, using sharp scissors, snip a single clean cut down the center-front seam allowance of the garment and facing, ending precisely $1\text{ mm}$ before the pivot stitch. Turn the facing to the inside of the garment, press the seam flat, and understitch along the facing side to complete the neckline.