Question

Describe and distinguish between ‘Phulkari’ and ‘Baghs’ embroidery from Punjab.

Hint:

Phulkari has sparse motifs, while Bagh covers the whole cloth with darning stitch.

Answer 1

Step 1: Phulkari:
Phulkari means 'flower work'. It is the folk embroidery of Punjab, also done in Haryana.
It is worked on coarse hand-spun cotton cloth (khaddar) with untwisted silk floss thread called pat.
The stitch used is the darning stitch, worked from the wrong side of the cloth.
The flowers and motifs are scattered, so the base cloth stays clearly visible.
Phulkari shawls and head covers (odhni) are worn on daily and festive occasions.

Step 2: Bagh:
Bagh means 'garden'. It is also a Punjabi embroidery done with the same darning stitch and silk floss.
In a bagh the embroidery covers the whole cloth, so the ground fabric cannot be seen.
Geometric patterns in rich colours such as golden yellow, orange and green give the look of a garden.
A bagh was made for weddings and as a bridal gift, not for daily use.

Step 3: Distinction:
1. Coverage: phulkari covers only part of the cloth; bagh covers the full cloth.
2. Ground cloth: visible in phulkari; hidden in bagh.
3. Use: phulkari is for everyday and festive wear; bagh is for weddings and special occasions.
4. Effort: bagh takes much more thread and time than phulkari.

Final Answer:
Both are Punjabi darning stitch embroideries on khaddar, but phulkari has sparse motifs with the cloth showing, while bagh fully covers the cloth.