Concept:
Embroideries are classified based on whether the artisan counts the individual threads of the fabric to place stitches (Counted Thread) or follows a pre-drawn design on the fabric (Free-hand/Surface embroidery).
Step 1: Identify counted thread embroideries.
• Phulkari (Punjab): Traditionally done on khaddar by counting threads using a darning stitch from the reverse side.
• Kasuti (Karnataka): Requires meticulous thread counting to create geometric patterns; no tracing is used.
• Soof (Gujarat/Rajasthan): A very fine embroidery where the artisan works from the back of the fabric, counting every single thread to form perfect triangles.
Step 2: Identify the non-counted embroidery.
Sozani (from Kashmir) is a form of free-hand needle embroidery. The design is first traced onto the fine pashmina shawl using a carved wooden block, and the artisan then follows the traced lines with incredibly fine stitches.