Question:
According to linear water wave theory, at a point on the free surface of a regular wave, the phase difference between the free surface elevation and the horizontal water particle acceleration is ________.
According to linear water wave theory, at a point on the free surface of a regular wave, the phase difference between the free surface elevation and the horizontal water particle acceleration is ________.
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In regular wave theory, the phase difference between the free surface elevation and horizontal particle acceleration is an important factor in understanding wave dynamics and particle motion.
Updated On: Apr 25, 2025
- 0°
- 45°
- 90°
- 135°
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The Correct Option is C
Solution and Explanation
Step 1: Water Particle Motion in Regular Waves.
In regular waves, the free surface elevation is a sinusoidal function. The water particle motion in regular waves follows circular trajectories in the vertical plane.
Step 2: Phase Difference.
The phase difference between the free surface elevation and the horizontal particle acceleration is found to be 90° based on linear wave theory. This occurs because the maximum acceleration of the water particles happens when the displacement of the free surface is zero.
Step 3: Conclusion.
Thus, the phase difference between the free surface elevation and the horizontal water particle acceleration is 90°.
Correct Answer: (C) 90°.
In regular waves, the free surface elevation is a sinusoidal function. The water particle motion in regular waves follows circular trajectories in the vertical plane.
Step 2: Phase Difference.
The phase difference between the free surface elevation and the horizontal particle acceleration is found to be 90° based on linear wave theory. This occurs because the maximum acceleration of the water particles happens when the displacement of the free surface is zero.
Step 3: Conclusion.
Thus, the phase difference between the free surface elevation and the horizontal water particle acceleration is 90°.
Correct Answer: (C) 90°.
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